Saturday, February 28, 2009

Child Soldiers

During the process of researching my book, I've come across some incredible images of child soldiers. There's both a haunting and surreal quality to them because they don't quite seem believable, yet the majority of countries hosting armed conflicts still deploy soldiers under the age of fifteen.






* no copyright infringements intended. I wish I could have linked to their host pages.

READ MORE...

Backpacker Literature

Writing geared at backpackers tends to fall into the category of either genre fiction , (Alex Garland's The Beach, Mark Mann's The Gringo Trail) or else travel writing of a more non-fiction persuasion. The goal here at Backpacker Fiction - and the goal with my new manuscript - is to somehow blend a narrative of adventure with the verisimilitude of non-fiction while employing the poetic and character-based language of literary fiction.

Here's an excerpt from the beginning of my new work,
The Tiger-Wolves Stop to Drink:


SKY STILL DARK WHEN I OPEN EYES again, dirty breath of sleep against the cold pane of rattling bus; us all perched on curves of sit bones like transported canaries under cloth, heads on cradle shoulders, laps, knees, but those constant potholes tossing us back into awake – taut, like the bang of a drum. In the blackened distance out over the grassy shoulder of road, palm trunks, glowing embers of soldier fires, plateau of rice fields and hump of that far mountain; the big dipper balanced on its handle at the horizon. Four icy bulbs square off its spoon flinging the pole star west, the last two stars of crooked handle planted in the earth. Whiff of sudden citrus in the rocking dark. Beside me, big-toothed woman drops chin to her chest, hips arc into the space of my seat but don’t mind since they’re warm and the air-conditioning has everyone huddled together. Across the aisle the young men, shouting with laughter as we pulled away from Yangon that afternoon, now drooped over each other in heaps like wilted stalks, knitted hats and jackets buttoned, sandals dangling from dusty feet.

Pothole sends shoulder into woman; she looks at me, shivers, then tosses her blanket over my bare legs. Gratitude ma’am, I think to her. Air-con’s got everyone miserable but no one wants to say to the driver who’s got his side window open, spitting red betel from his cheeks. Sides of all the buses are covered in dried streaks of it, like busted through flocks of lazy dragonflies. Still, thanks for this blanket. Some warmth I wrap close to skin, then pull knees to chest. Wool smelling like woodsmoke and sweet, clean like washed in a river, laid on hay to dry while millet boiled in a pot by burning teak logs. Wonder what fire it was kept by, feet that rested on, bodies it belonged to, what its eyes were and what that sugar is.

Thirteen hours north to Mandalay. Baz a seat ahead and across the aisle with mouth open, head lodged in the valley between seat and window, bare arms tucked inside t-shirt, knees to chest like Peruvian mummified with crumbling leather skin. Come to Burma for respite. Glad he had the idea in the first place, since both knew that nothing would change so long as we stayed where we were; that loss of perspective that creeps up inside flesh and techno thump on a beach like Haad Yao. Got to clear the system once in a while since everything gets so greasy in the glare of cosmic screens that bubble with tricks of the universe. Come to Asia for culture, freedom, mad times in exotic landscapes, not to weave past drunken Westerners liquored with cheap whiskey, picking fights with the Thais who’d sooner knife them then haggle diplomatically. So goddamned jaded about our presence here. Thousands shipped in and out of the islands, come to party, puke in the surf then off to more pristine climes. Always that hollering in English and those tinny speakers hung over bamboo-bars blaring radio songs from back home making the bikini girls squeal and the boys get vulgar. Glad we left; didn’t feel like Thailand at all but some tropical holding room for those not wild enough for true Asia. Glad that’s all finished. Now traveling with Baz on this bus with wood-back seats, paint-chipped and filthy with the rolls of tender human bodies comforting for sleep, sewing a giant thread up the chest of Burma.

Yawn like a woken child. Stare out the window onto flat fields and roadsides, wanting to jump off and walk in the crisp, smoky air, meet some wandering soldiers would share a fire with and yawn some more. Herd of ghostly cattle in silhouette with the moon, avenues of date palms on diminishing flooded paddies the white birds wade in catching rice trout, all vanishing into black mountain that grips the dipper.

Two seats in front, see the back of two foreigners’ heads, guy asleep on girlfriend’s shoulder. Saw them board in Yangon but wasn’t in the mood for chit-chat even though somehow this responsibility. You can look away from filthy cripples edging the Khao San or copper-haired women trawling babies through Delhi traffic, shoving them through the windows of your rickshaw, but never the gold-faced cleanliness of the backpacker. Never the white. But truth be told, another foreigner isn’t out to fuck you. Possible. But not likely. At least not any who would make the effort. Haad Yao was full of burly past-life convicts who’d pull a knife if you looked at them wrong. Those ones don’t venture far from the beach bars though, not into Burma anyways. The poorer the country, the friendlier traveler you’ll meet. Figure it has something to do with the comforts you give up and the type of person wanting to know how that tingles.

Seems girl can’t sleep either, watch her playing with ends of blond hair, staring out the window searching for red eyelid dawn. Man seated ahead of them slips orange slice into mouth, him too waiting for the burning forehead of sun, or even just the tinge of blue found only on cold dawns and icebergs. Must have smelt his thumbnail puncture the skin of that fruit. Close my eyes, tip chin to chest and hope to sleep through this deep freeze, waking under the towering ferns of Mandalay.



READ MORE...

Friday, February 20, 2009

Encounters...

The thing I love most about documentaries is that you're pretty much guaranteed an interesting watch. What's more, it's likely to be an interesting watch about a subject that usually you'd never given a second thought towards. Werner Herzog's Encounters at the End of the World brings not only the continent of Antarctica to life, but weaves a layered and existential narrative cocoon around the type of life forms that find themselves on that desolate continent to begin with: humans included.

This film unpacks nature's deepest craving to explore, from penguins who leave their colonies for long and perilous sojourns alone, to human scuba-divers who descend under the sea ice for a glimpse at a world that is largely unknown. Herzog's compelling narration asks the most important of questions in an age where "Top 5", "Top 50" or "Best of" lists have overtaken the travel-blog sphere like a silly virus: Why do we travel in the first place? And of course, where to next?





READ MORE...

Sunday, February 15, 2009

The Fiction Element

Due to the impending due-date of my thesis, I've had to stop posting mediocre travel anecdotes to focus on wrapping up this novel. Being so close to the end summons whole new clans of self-doubt, boredom and regret. Time for a good-ole "writing a book as a journey" metaphor.

Phase 1: Piss and Vinegar. Faced with the blank page, you've got your idea revving 1000/mph just dying to come out. It's going to be the perfect book with the perfect beginning to capture publishers' attention. You stalk the book tables at Chapters and start planning a brilliantly designed book-cover. You guffaw politely at parties and give your pseudo-intellectual reasons for hating Oprah's book club: "I mean, it's great that people are reading again, but...."

Phase 2: You're on your way so it's time to lay back and get a little distance under your belt. You're eager to start accumulating pages so you print off your work at the end of the day and keep it in a nicely organized pile or in a fancy holder labeled "manuscript". It's self-delusion at this point, but the deluded can still put one foot in front of the other, so to speak. The book world needs something a little off-beat, a new mode of expression to capture all our modern-day neurosis and digitalized forms of communication.

Phase 3: The pages are piling up. The months have flown by. You've taken your characters to the ends of the earth and watched them grow and struggle as humans. You've happy with where you've been, but are now starting to look towards the distant horizon to catch a glimpse of where they might possibly end up. You've plotted the co-ordinates correctly, you're sure. But why can't you locate the hostel where you're supposed to spend the night? Flickers of doubt. Uh oh.

Phase 4: You make a big mistake by flipping back to the front of the manuscript. It was originally just to fact-check a minor character detail (did he say he had one cow or two?) but you end up reading a dozen pages and render yourself horrified at how confusing your prose reads, how stilted the dialogue. You think, "Am I even on the same continent?" Your Odyssean journey might actually have been an insidious waste of time. Thoughts of handing a virtuoso first-draft to an ecstatic publisher vanish. You'll be lucky if your grandma even reads it. A massive storm brews on the horizon. It might just be time to cut your losses and run for cover: "No, you must be mistaken. I never said I was writing a book...I was thinking about it though. No, no. There's really no book. No book at all...."

Phase 5: No, you decide, it's too late to turn back. Even if your feet are blistered, your clothes smelling like a hamper of hockey equipment, your tongue dried and you've developed profound irritation with the characters you've spent so long with, you're so close to wrapping things up, you have to redeem the hundreds of hours spent by at least completing the task. You may not have broken first through the ribbon at the finish line, but at least you crawled over it twelve hours later of your own accord.

Repeat phases 4 and 5 endlessly during the revision process. Insert a phase 4.5 for extreme moments of panic, such as meeting a thesis deadline or coming across a brutal contradiction in the plot. Phase 4.7 happens when you have to call a friend to talk you down from your balcony railing. Keep a roster of phone numbers nearby in case the first ones don't answer.

There might be ten phases, there might be twenty. But so far I'm crawling around phases 4 and 5 like a hornet I saw once in Russia who was high on kerosene fumes and staggered across my table for two hours. Later that week, I saw an ant carrying the hornet's body in a straight line back to its queen.


READ MORE...

Saturday, February 7, 2009

First Tourist Arrives in Iraq...

War-torn countries somehow always become future backpacking hotspots. Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and now Iraq. This article on the front page of the International Herald Tribune signifies the perhaps premature advent of independent tourists to the country whose conflict has defined our generation. 





READ MORE...

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Way Off the Beaten Path

Dedicated to the Pa O people near Kalaw, Burma.


After several posts about the theme park-like congestion on South-East Asia's tourist trail, I start up where last week's post left off. If there is one place in that area of the world where locals still fall off their bikes staring at your sun-deprived skin, Burma is that place. Burma is currently as devoid of tourists as a Chinese buffet just gone through a lawsuit for food-poisoning. Now more than ever, after the "September Problem" and Cyclone Nargis, it's possible to leap well clear of that beaten path and discover a communal way of life still thriving near the remote trekking town of Kalaw.

My guide S. and I launched into a political discussion as soon as we were out of town limits. The soft-spoken grandson of an Indian engineer brought to Burma by the British to construct the local railroad, S. was eager to share both the inhuman stories of military corruption and his knowledge of the local area. When he called to a peasant woman ahead on the path speaking her dialect, it was a split decision he left up to me: "Either we go to the villages or go with her to see the rice harvest...up to you."


I hesitated. I'd seen rice being harvested while living in Japan. I was also eager to see village life. But this woman had been a friend of S.'s family for many years and the villages would still be there the next day. Plus, I'd made a decision to go with the flow and accept what the Universe presented me. S. looked excited by my choice. "She's been inviting me to see this harvest for many years, but I haven't yet gone. It's very fortunate for you that today is the day."

The valley was a small divot of terraced fields surrounded by hills of coniferous pine. A cloudless blue sky arched over us like a dome sealing us off from the modern world. This woman owned a few terraces and people from the village had already arrived; the soft clang of their oxen's bells produced the pastoral soundtrack to this medieval scene. The tradition for the Pa O people is the owner of the field provides food for those who come to help.

I stood rather bemusedly off to the side taking photos as they set up the cooking fire and laid out a tarpaulin on which they'd collect the rice. S. chatted softly with everyone whose glances then turned to me and then back to the task at hand. Tourists, although less common these days, were always passing by on the local trails trekking throughout the area. I felt silly watching them work while I stood drinking my bottled water looking suitably out-of-place and awkward.

They had set up a small bunch of pine branches and I was ushered into the meagre shade and served tea and local sweet rice mixed with tea leaves. "How amazing they all come together to help each other out like this," I commented to S. "Everybody works, everybody gets fed." Everybody, that is, except me. I was lounging in the shade like Cleopatra under a fan of peacock feathers.
"Do you want to help?" S. asked.
"Well..." I responded.


My beef was this. I felt morally opposed to sitting back snapping photos of these people like they were automatons in a Civilization Museum display case. But I was also self-conscious of being a foreign clown: that type of big-boned, hirsute tourist who dresses up in local costume and puts his pale flabby arm around an unassuming local lady for a bit of easy comedy and the ability to say he "made friends with the locals".

But after what I had just said to S., how could I in clear conscience sit back while plates of food were passed my direction, yet had not lifted a finger for my own self-conscious insecurities?

For the next two hours, S. and I gathered tied bunches of rice into bigger piles then loaded onto shoulders and brought to the tarpaulin to be smashed against field rocks to release the grains. The villagers laughed as I bent over and offered to turn the tables and take photos of me. But I was determined to show them I would earn my food. By lunchtime, I had cleared three terraces, worked up a sweat and earned my respect.



The change in the villagers was palpable. No longer making polite chit-chat or keeping a respectful distance, they bombarded S. with questions about me. The man in charge of tending the fire pulled a cheroot from his bag and handed it to me. By the time lunch was served, he had offered me his daughter for a fair price. The girls laughed at how I sat cross-legged and ate with my left hand. What did I do? Where did I come from? Why was I in their tiny valley of rice fields in the first place?


As the bags of rice were thrashed, sieved, then loaded into sacks, S. mentioned that I might want to give a small donation to the woman as a gesture of thanks. I pulled out two thousand kyats ($2) - a few day's wages for them - and bunched them in my hand, wanting to donate them inconspicuously.

The harvest over, the sun banking down to the horizon, I went to thank the woman and say my goodbyes. When she saw the bills, an uproar ensued. Soon I had ten hands in my face waving polite "no thank yous" and S. was blushing with embarrassment at their protest.



"They say there's no way they will take your money," he translated. "They say it's wrong to put a price on generosity. They were happy to have you as their guest. They cannot take it."
"But it's also my happiness to share generosity with them!" I protested.
S. laughed. "They absolutely refuse! They say it would be bad luck for them."
"Is there anyone in their village who's in need and could use it?"
"They say no. They say thank you, but no."

Smiles of crooked, betel-stained teeth beamed at me from all sides. All I could say was a meagre "chayzu tin ba ley" over and over and over. I had spent an entire day with a group of Pa O people, eating their food, drinking their tea and participating in their way of life - not another tourist in sight. Today was a backpacker's dream.



As we climbed the hill, they stood waving and calling out "goodbyes". I was glad to have my sunglasses on to hide the spill of tears throbbing from the back of my throat.

"Wow," S. said. "What an amazing chance. Even I have never seen their harvest."
"Yeah..." I choked.
"And to think that only two years ago, the army forced them off their land and they were left with nothing."

It was a story I would hear many times in Burma. But a strong sense of community and rows of unabashed smiles would always accompany.

READ MORE...